Itineraries you could not google.

An empty gravel road carved into pale limestone cliffs high above a still sea channel at first light, an island shore dissolving into the haze, no cars and no signage anywhere
Ferry to the island · no website44.28° N · 15.31° ENo guard rail, no signposts
The channel road above the Velebit coast, looking south. 44.28° N · 15.31° E
Departure · Day zero

Two planners, fixers in 43 regions, about sixty hours on every route. Two weeks built from things no search result will surface: the ferry that is not on the booking sites, the restaurant with no sign, the valley the tour buses skip.

How a route is built

Every route takes about sixty hours across three passes: an hour on the phone with you, a draft checked by the fixers who live on it, and a last pass that takes days out rather than adding them.

  1. Waypoint 01 · Listen

    The long call

    An hour on the phone: what you loved, what you endured, and the day on your last trip you wish had been two. We note what you avoid saying, too. Budgets are discussed once, then left alone.

  2. Waypoint 02 · Verify

    The ground check

    Your draft goes out to the people who live on it. Dubravka in Kotor knows the 07:40 from Prapratno holds four cars and that the queue forms at seven. She reads every draft that touches her coast, and No. 34 came back without the coast road.

  3. Waypoint 03 · Loosen

    Slack, on purpose

    Fourteen days, planned to the ferry timetable and never to the hour. Two of them carry nothing at all, and nobody fills them for you: on No. 34 that was day 6, near Trogir, and day 11, on Mljet.

How a route is built

Every route takes about sixty hours across three passes: an hour on the phone with you, a draft checked by the fixers who live on it, and a last pass that takes days out rather than adding them.

  1. Waypoint 01 · Listen

    The long call

    An hour on the phone: what you loved, what you endured, and the day on your last trip you wish had been two. We note what you avoid saying, too. Budgets are discussed once, then left alone.

  2. Waypoint 02 · Verify

    The ground check

    Your draft goes out to the people who live on it. Dubravka in Kotor knows the 07:40 from Prapratno holds four cars and that the queue forms at seven. She reads every draft that touches her coast, and No. 34 came back without the coast road.

  3. Waypoint 03 · Loosen

    Slack, on purpose

    Fourteen days, planned to the ferry timetable and never to the hour. Two of them carry nothing at all, and nobody fills them for you: on No. 34 that was day 6, near Trogir, and day 11, on Mljet.

Waypoint 04 · The ledger

Three routes from the ledger

The names are internal, part habit, part affection. Every route is built once, for one set of travellers, then retired. Yours will not be on this page.

No. 34

The Slow Adriatic

14 days · late May · Trieste → KotorBuilt once, for two travellersRetired

  1. Trieste
  2. Rijeka
  3. Velebit
  4. Zadar
  5. Šibenik
  6. nothing planned
  7. Hvar
  8. Korčula
  9. Pelješac
  10. Mljet
  11. nothing planned
  12. Šipan
  13. Bay of Kotor
  14. Kotor

South along the coast by local ferry and one borrowed fishing boat. Lunch in a five-table konoba on Šipan, anchovies and nothing else. You arrive in Kotor by water at dusk, which is the only correct way to arrive in Kotor.

“We didn't see another tour group for nine days. On the tenth we saw one, from the deck of a boat they could not board.”

R. & P. Hartmann

No. 41

Hokuriku in the Rain

14 days · June · Kanazawa → Sado → TakayamaBuilt once, for a family of fourRetired

  1. Kanazawa
  2. Toyama Bay
  3. Naoetsu
  4. Ogi, Sado
  5. Ryotsu
  6. Niigata
  7. Takayama

June, on purpose: the wet season empties the coast road. A drum rehearsal on Sado you attend as guests, not audience. The best meal is in a farmhouse with six seats and no menu, booked ten weeks ahead.

A small car ferry crossing a misty, forested strait at first light, one figure at the rail
The first boat of the day across the Sado strait, on a clear morning before the June rains. No reservations, no website, cash at the ramp.38.02° N · 138.37° E

No. 47

Anatolia by Dolmuş

14 days · October · İzmir → Kaş, the inland wayBuilt once, for three friendsRetired

  1. İzmir
  2. Ödemiş
  3. The hill villages
  4. Elmalı
  5. Kaş
  6. The cove

No coach, no cruise stop. Shared minibuses between hill villages, a carpet co-op above Ödemiş where the tea is not optional, and a cove near Kaş the gulet boats skip because the anchorage is awkward; you reach it by rowboat.

“Fernweh sent a typed page titled 'things to not do'. It is the most useful travel document we own.”

M. Okafor
A narrow cobbled lane at blue hour between tall weathered walls, warm light spilling from one unmarked doorway beside two iron bistro tables
Dinner is behind the second door. There is no sign.Ask for the corner table
Waypoint 05 · The fixers

Why fixers beat guidebooks

A guidebook is written for everyone who might ever go. A fixer answers for one village, this week: which taverna reopened under the daughter, whose boat is out of the water until May, and which ferry has moved its departure without telling its website.

The route book · contactsFour of forty-three regions

  • Dubravka

    Kotor, Montenegro42.42° N · 18.77° E

    Twenty years a harbourmaster's clerk. Knows every ferry deckhand by name, and one by his debts.

  • Kenji

    Sado, Japan38.08° N · 138.44° E

    Retired ferry engineer. Got our travellers into the drum rehearsal by fixing the generator first.

  • Aylin

    Kaş, Türkiye36.20° N · 29.64° E

    Counts the gulet boats every May and moves our clients' week accordingly.

  • Emre

    Kaçkar Mountains, Türkiye40.83° N · 41.16° E

    Runs the last garage before the pass. Knows it is open a full day before the official notice does.

The guidebook was right three summers ago. The fixer is right on Thursday.

A high terraced valley with a single dirt road winding from the foreground up toward a distant stone village, a dotted route line traced along it
The valley the buses skip. We are not going to name it. Twelve kilometres of dirt road from the end of the tarmac to the bakery.Coordinates withheld
Waypoint 06 · The last leg

Start with where you have been, and what you refuse to repeat.

Eight questions, about four minutes: the short version of the long call. Nothing here is binding, least of all the dates, and a planner replies within two days either way.

A concept build · nothing is sent

Arrival

Eight trips a month. That is the whole studio.

Two planners and roughly sixty hours a route: eight routes is 480 hours, which is as many as two people can build properly. If your month is full we say so, and hold your dates for the next one.

Replies within two days, usually from a ferry.

480 h a month: eight routes at about sixty hours each

A month, between two planners · about 55 h a week each